LEDs last longer and look brighter and redder, and new white substrate improves light output. LEDs ( Light Emitting Diodes ) use less current than the standard Mustang incandescent bulbs, relieving stress on your alternator. There is no need to add additional wires or the drill and modify the lamp housing. The installation of these taillights is a snap. ![]() I'm looking at the 66 wiring diagrams to try to figure out the circuits.If you demand the very best - this is the kit - more LEDs and brighter performance than any on the market plus LED sequential operation up to 2-3X brighter than stock lamps! Exclusive "Smart Signal" technology prevents unwanted sequencing during braking. Does your washer work? If not most likely need to replace that fuse and insure a good connection there in the fuse box. I was able to verify from the diagrams that yes, the washer and back up lights are the same fuse in the fuse box on the 66. I know on earlier year (64) the same fuse is used for the windshield washer. You should check there to see if there is power. The back up lights are switched at the neutral safety / back up switch. If the wire is good, there is a defective connection inside the Turn Signal Relay. If there is power and the relay is functional, check the wire and connections between the Stop Light Relay and the Turn Signal Relay. If there is no power, there is a defect in the wiring between the Stop Light Switch and the Stop Light Relay. If there is power, test for power at the Stop Light Relay to determine if it has a good ground connection and if it is operating. If there is no power, the Stop Light Switch is defective. Test for power across the Stop Light Switch terminals with the Brake Pedal depressed. If all stop lights do not operate, the problem can be at the stop light switch, Stop Light Relay, Turn Signal Relay or the wires between the three components may be open. One filament in the bulb is for taillights (when you turn on parking or headlights) the other filament is for brake / directional. The lights at the back of the car are dual filament. ![]() Sometimes a fuse looks good to the eye, but is not making contact at the end terminals and can give you a fits. Lastly, check your fuses with an ohmeter/ multimeter, or some type of continuity tester. the WD 40 won't hurt them ad will eventually evaporate. I hope you have a lot of patience, because you should also pull apart any of the 2, 3 or 4 wire connectors, spray them with WD40, and then connect, disconnect and reconnect them a few times to get the matching pins clean. Then give the complete fuse block a good spray clean with electrical cleaner to remove any WD40 and let it dry properly. If it is, then you probably do not have to remove all of them and clean the ring terminals. You might loosen/remove one of the nuts, remove the wire to see if it is clean underneath. Give the nuts of the larger supply wires (top ones) a good brush cleaning. It will help loosen some of the rust and "green crusties"! Then, again, with a small wire or brass brush, clean all the terminals, fuse section dividers and so on. I would disconnect the battery, remove all the fuses, and spray the crap out of it with WD40 to start. Your main fuse block under the dash on the passenger side kick panel is in bad shape. Also, make sure the screw and/or hole in the body where the ground is attaches, is clean, scrape a little paint off, if necessary. ![]() Use a small wire brush, (or brass), to clean the terminals if it has one, or, in some extreme cases, use a fine-cut file to get a good, shiny surface on both sides of the terminal. clean the outer shell, particularly where the bayonet pins are, and the center contact. Make sure the center silver contact is clean, and the contact moves in and out, showing that the spring is not seized. Get a small wire brush, round bottle cleaner type, or something that you can get into the sockets ,go around and round the inside of the socket, and then blow it out with compressed air, (if you have access to an air compressor). ![]() It is more oily that electrical cleaner, but is is a kind of loosen-all fluid and will help with dirt, crud, etc. Electrical cleaner/spray will work, or a cheaper solution is WD 40. For the bulb sockets, after removing the bulbs, spray a cleaner into the socket.
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